Labels, measurements and condition: a short guide to buying pre-owned with confidence.

Buying vintage is a little like reading. A piece tells you a lot about itself, if you know where to look.

Start with measurements, not the size

Sizes change between decades, countries and houses. An Italian 42 from 2005 is not a 42 from today. That's why every piece at RARE. is measured flat, by hand, in centimetres. Take a garment you love from your own wardrobe, lay it flat, measure it the same way and compare. It takes two minutes and saves you most disappointments.

A measuring tape across a coat laid flat

Read the label

The label tells you where and roughly when a piece was made, and what it is made of. Composition matters more than most people think: wool, cashmere and silk age beautifully; cheap blends usually don't. Some labels say more by saying less. Margiela's blank white label is a statement in itself.

Understand condition

We use three grades. Excellent: no visible signs of wear. Very good: minimal wear, invisible when worn. Good: visible wear, described and photographed. Every flaw we find is in the photos. A small mark on the hem of a twenty-year-old coat is less a defect than evidence of a life.

Look at construction

Look inside if the photos allow. Even seams, finished edges, a lining that sits flat: these are the signs of a garment built to last, and they are often better in older pieces than in new ones.

The inside of a jacket with neat seams and a silk lining

And finally, trust the feeling

If you keep coming back to a piece, there's usually a reason. Vintage rewards the people who notice.